by Lis Friemoth
Stores will be stocked with Easter lilies — give them
a try
Lilium — lilies — enhance almost any garden with a sense
of refined beauty and grace. The large blooms will be arranged
in a pendent, upright, or horizontal manner on multi-flower
stems. The form of the flower varies with species, but the
most common are trumpet, turk’s cap, flat, vase-shaped, and
bowl-shaped. As an added bonus, many will delight with a
sweet and heady fragrance.
The elegance and grace of lilies can fool us into believing
that they are difficult to grow in an everyday place, with
an everyday gardener in attendance. But, oh, not so!
This genus, with more than 100 species, has a long history
of breeding, going back hundreds of years, and offers many
opportunities for success in the northern garden. But even
though this genus has its origins in the northern hemisphere,
don’t be lulled into blind choices. There are many that
are not cold-hardy. And by all expert accounts, generalized
recommendations are next to impossible, given the wide
species diversity and the broad range of potential growing-site
conditions.
For the Midwestern region, Asiatics (Lilium auratum, L.
leichtlinii, L. henryi, L. regale, L rubellum, L. speciosum,
and L. tigrinum) may prove to be the most successful in
the home garden.
Orienpets (OT) are a result of relatively recent crosses
made between Oriental and Trumpet lilies. These lilies
offer interesting color, form and fragrance for northern
gardens. So, how does one make sense out of all of the
choices? Focus on good site evaluation, a bit of research
into the optimal growing conditions required by any species,
and of course, judicious shopping.
Bulb structure
The structure of the lily bulb is important to understand
for optimal handling and treatment. They are true bulbs,
with somewhat thick, overlapping scales. Some species produce
stem bulbils throughout the growing process that can be
harvested after a few years for propagation purposes. But,
unlike tulips, lilies do not have a protective sheath,
or tunic, surrounding the bulb, so handle them carefully.
Lilies never go completely dormant, and need available
moisture in a well-drained soil throughout the year. Planting
should be done as soon as possible, because these are not
good shelf-keepers. If, for some reason, you must wait
to plant the bulbs, be sure to leave them in the moisture-retaining
packing material; they will desiccate quickly when left
open to the air. If left to desiccation, you run the unfortunate
risk of loss.
Soil requirements
Soil requirements are simple. A well-drained, no-wet-feet-tolerated,
neutral garden soil with plenty of organic matter in a
sunny site will provide a good start. For optimal growth,
provide sun for the heads and shade for the feet. This
can be easily accomplished by inter-planting with other
perennials or low shrubs. (Do check; some prefer slightly
acidic sites and some like a bit of top shade.)
Planting depths will vary according to species chosen,
and with a few exceptions, most will follow the three times
rule. Loosen and prepare the soil deep enough to allow
the bulb base to gently rest at a depth of about three
times the height of the bulb. An exception is Lilium candidum.
This species needs to be planted just under the soil surface
— at one-half to one-inch deep. Application of a balanced
(or bulb, if available) fertilizer is a good idea. Two
applications, based on label directions, should be made
after shoot emergence and prior to bloom-bud development.
Once buds are developed, no fertilizer should be applied
until after bloom fade.
Daily care
In general, daily care for lilies is quite minimal if
planted appropriately. Provide water equal to an inch of
rainfall per week, augmenting nature as needed. As flowers
develop and fade, remove them, leaving as much of the stem
and leaf material as possible to continue photosynthesis
until fall freeze. At that point, gentle removal of all
top foliage is recommended.
Container planting of lilies is just as easy as in-ground
planting, as long as the container is deep enough to accommodate
the deep rooting structure. With proper planting, fertility,
and water provision (and if frost-heaving is eliminated
through winter insulation), they should last for three
or more years in a container without much effort.
Pests and diseases are no stranger to the Lilium genera.
Some can be moderated with a bit of forethought and some
proactive cultural practices. Aphids may develop as the
season warms. If they appear, a properly placed stream
of water from the garden hose may be enough to knock them
back. If needed, insecticidal soap will work wonders for
control. Slugs and snails love the shaded root zones also
loved by lilies, but can be controlled with beer baits
or chemical bait traps.
If the plants begin to look a bit weak in structure before
flowering, you may have plants that need a bit more soil
to cover developing stem roots (a species-specific issue,
check your purchase). If plants look weak after flowering,
you may have removed too much foliage to allow for adequate
photosynthesis. Next time, leave a bit more material intact
so that the plant can feed itself.
Other problems may need a bit of chemical assistance.
One of the tougher ones to deal with is Botrytis on new
shoots. If they start to develop a grayish, moldy appearance
and begin to rot back, they may need some fungicidal treatment
early in the cycle to survive. If your lilies develop a
mottled, yellowish pattern on the foliage, have it checked
for mosaic virus.
This virus is not treatable, is spread by insects and
should be removed before infection is allowed to spread
to any other lilies in your garden.
So, what to do with those beautiful lilies available for
spring/Easter? Those that are widely available often are
Lilium longiflorum Nellie White, Ace or Georgia. And while
extremely beautiful for indoors, none of these is guaranteed
hardy for outdoor use in the northern-zone climates. If
you want to try to get an Easter lily to grow outdoors,
a few site considerations should be thought out in advance.
Choose a location that is somewhat protected from the
winter elements, on a slight slope, if possible, to minimize
early and late season cold damage.
Lilium longiflorum grow best in full sun when planted
in a good, loose-textured, well-drained soil, relatively
high in organic matter in an area that receives average
moisture.
If the plant is happy throughout the summer (a bit of
balanced fertilizer will help), you may be rewarded with
a second bloom in the fall. After the foliage has died
back in the fall, and the ground has frozen solid, apply
a few inches of quality mulch to help it survive the winter.
— Lis Friemoth is a horticulture diagnostician. Contact her at (262) 745-2904, P.O. Box 58, Springfield, WI 53176, visit online at www.thegardenhoe.com or e-mail her at gardenhoe@tds.net. Listen to Liz from 9 a.m. to 10 a.m. every third Saturday on WISN AM1130 radio. |
